| Article number: |
28590-56090 |
| Availability: |
In stock
(1)
|
EDIC Fuel Control Relay - 12V
2 units 1 unit available only.
These are new old stock parts - they have never been installed in a vehicle, and have been in storage for a few decades.
This part has been out of production for many years and it is very rare to find new old stock parts.
The individual photos were created using an app that clears the background to make it white; this app creates a few artifacts such as blurred details and fuzzy edges.
Suits:
Land Cruiser BJ60, BJ70, BJ73, BJ75, HJ60, HJ75 & a few other models
ToyoAce JY30
Dyna BU20, BU23, BU25, BU30, HU30, HU40, HU50
Toyota pn:
28590-56090
Nippon Denso pn:
061700-0271
Toyota OEM - Japan
All sales are final on all electrical items. This means: no returns.
Here is part of an incomplete article I was writing some time ago on EDIC relays and motors not working - there are open headings that I might fill in some day with explanations:
If the EDIC motor control arm is moving back and forth while driving, you need to check a few things first, because it is most likely not the relay box being the source of the problem if your relay box is new, or otherwise in good clean - inside (circuit board) and out - condition.
This has sometimes been referred to in the past as the "EDIC Funky Chicken”, and Canadian BJ40/42 and BJ60 owners have probably experienced this at some point if they have had their vehicle for a while.
—//—//—//—
It’s helpful and useful to try to think about when (or where) this was happening and what you were doing at the time to help focus on the diagnostic process and then use an Occam’s approach - check the simplest and most single-cause failure points first and foremost.
One must also consider why you are replacing your original EDIC box: what caused the original box to fail and need to be replaced? If it was missing, why did the previous person remove it?
Multiple places must be checked for proper electrical connections, including clean ground points where the EDIC motor mounting points contact engine block.
The very first places I would check in a diagnostic decision process are, of course, the most common typical failure points:
1. There absolutely must be no water intrusion on (in) the relay box.
Both 40 and 60 series have a very common problem where water can drip or even trickle onto and then into the EDIC relay box from above - condensation, from leaking body seams, water crossings, windshield washer tubes leaking (esp 40 series).
—> Water intrusion is the number one source of all EDIC relay box failures by far.
In the early stages, it can be hard to tell if this happening since the water has usually dried up by the time you go the check. It does not take much water to make this happen, as little as a drop. Every single 40 and 60 series will eventually have water intrusion problems into the EDIC relay box, and then tend to recover for a while when they dry out with the cycle happening many times until the circuits and relays corrode or the components fail. Some boxes are very rusted before they completely fail, while others can look pretty good - but all will have some evidence of water intrusion either on the outside of the box, or on the inside of the box or of the circuits.
If it’s been snowing, raining or wet where you live, you need to pull out the kick panel and look for any indication of water intrusion no matter how minor. Be it water tracking in the dust that’s collected there, marks left by water, corrosion of steel or coated steel parts in the surrounding area, wet carpets or floor mats, the presence of water anywhere in the kick panel area or nearby floor and so on.
2. Electrical connections, ground points (battery, block, body), mounting pedestal for the EDIC motor, wires broken at the EDIC motor, fusible link(s), battery terminal connections etc.
3. Oil pressure switch
Oil pressure safety switch and wiring at the engine. There are 2 sensors on a 3B; one is for the (useless) oil pressure gauge, and the other small switch style sender is for the low oil pressure shutdown.
Oil level.
Actual oil pressure low
Engine compartment wires cracking, breaking, poor contact, electrical interference
Low idle speed
4. Alternator not working properly (regulator malfunction, worn brushes)
Running voltage, voltage under load
Fluctuations
Accessories on
5. Soldered connections inside the box (old, well used boxes)
Vibration breaking solder joints
