NOS - Relay Assy, Fuel Control - 12V - Land Cruiser EDIC - 28590-56090

Article number: 28590-56090
Availability: Out of stock

EDIC Fuel Control Relay - 12V

2 units 1 unit available only.

These are new old stock parts - they have never been installed in a vehicle, and have been in storage for a few decades.

This part has been out of production for many years and it is very rare to find new old stock parts.

The individual photos were created using an app that clears the background to make it white; this app creates a few artifacts such as blurred details and fuzzy edges.

Land Cruiser BJ60, BJ70, BJ73, BJ75, HJ60, HJ75 & a few other models
ToyoAce JY30
Dyna BU20, BU23, BU25, BU30, HU30, HU40, HU50

Toyota pn:

Nippon Denso pn:

Toyota OEM - Japan

All sales are final on all electrical items. This means: no returns. 

Here is part of an incomplete article I was writing some time ago on EDIC relays and motors not working - there are open headings that I might fill in some day with explanations:

If the EDIC motor control arm is moving back and forth while driving, you need to check a few things first, because it is most likely not the relay box being the source of the problem if your relay box is new, or otherwise in good clean - inside (circuit board) and out - condition.  
This has sometimes been referred to in the past as the "EDIC Funky Chicken”, and Canadian BJ40/42 and BJ60 owners have probably experienced this at some point if they have had their vehicle for a while. 
It’s helpful and useful to try to think about when (or where) this was happening and what you were doing at the time to help focus on the diagnostic process and then use an Occam’s approach - check the simplest and most single-cause failure points first and foremost. 
One must also consider why you are replacing your original EDIC box: what caused the original box to fail and need to be replaced? If it was missing, why did the previous person remove it?
Multiple places must be checked for proper electrical connections, including clean ground points where the EDIC motor mounting points contact engine block. 
The very first places I would check in a diagnostic decision process are, of course, the most common typical failure points:
1. There absolutely must be no water intrusion on (in) the relay box. 
Both 40 and 60 series have a very common problem where water can drip or even trickle onto and then into the EDIC relay box from above - condensation, from leaking body seams, water crossings, windshield washer tubes leaking (esp 40 series). 
—> Water intrusion is the number one source of all EDIC relay box failures by far. 
In the early stages, it can be hard to tell if this happening since the water has usually dried up by the time you go the check. It does not take much water to make this happen, as little as a drop. Every single 40 and 60 series will eventually have water intrusion problems into the EDIC relay box, and then tend to recover for a while when they dry out with the cycle happening many times until the circuits and relays corrode or the components fail. Some boxes are very rusted before they completely fail, while others can look pretty good - but all will have some evidence of water intrusion either on the outside of the box, or on the inside of the box or of the circuits. 
If it’s been snowing, raining or wet where you live, you need to pull out the kick panel and look for any indication of water intrusion no matter how minor. Be it water tracking in the dust that’s collected there, marks left by water, corrosion of steel or coated steel parts in the surrounding area, wet carpets or floor mats, the presence of water anywhere in the kick panel area or nearby floor and so on. 
2. Electrical connections, ground points (battery, block, body), mounting pedestal for the EDIC motor, wires broken at the EDIC motor, fusible link(s), battery terminal connections etc. 
3. Oil pressure switch
Oil pressure safety switch and wiring at the engine. There are 2 sensors on a 3B; one is for the (useless) oil pressure gauge, and the other small switch style sender is for the low oil pressure shutdown. 
Oil level. 
Actual oil pressure low
Engine compartment wires cracking, breaking, poor contact, electrical interference 
Low idle speed
4. Alternator not working properly (regulator malfunction, worn brushes)
Running voltage, voltage under load
Accessories on 
5. Soldered connections inside the box (old, well used boxes)
Vibration breaking solder joints 

------here is a copy of an email I wrote about diagnosing EDIC relay problems due to "EDIC switching engine off after start up"----

There are several factors that affect the EDIC operation - one is oil pressure and another is an input signal from the alternator.
1. The oil pressure switch will shut off the engine via the EDIC system if there's no oil pressure within about 5 seconds.
- Check your oil level
- There are two pressure senders on the RH side of the engine below the exhaust manifold that either thread into the side of the block or the oil cooler itself. One is a small 1-wire sender - this one supplies an on/off signal to the EDIC. The other is a larger 2-wire sender with a small can attached to it that supplies the oil pressure gauge and has nothing to do with the EDIC.
- Check the wiring at the EDIC oil pressure sender. If the wire is broken or is disconnected the EDIC will not get a signal to turn off the engine in the event of low oil pressure. This can also be used to test this particular function of the EDIC - ground the wire to the block and EDIC should switch the engine off after a few seconds if this circuit is working properly. This wire can break off at the connector due to age (vibration, corrosion), and if it's dangling in such a manner that it connects to ground it will cause the EDIC to turn off the engine.
2. The alternator provides a signal to the EDIC that says "the engine is running, remain in the on position".
- Check the alternator wiring running from the plastic plug at the top rear portion of the alternator. These wires are subject to breaking their connections with age due to vibration, corrosion etc especially if they are not tied down with the various clamps and clips that should be there for this purpose. 
- Wires that are not connecting properly may cause a charge lamp to appear lit up on the dashboard on vehicles equipped with a charge lamp, or they may cause a no-charge condition which will show up on the voltage gauge as a low voltage (12V or less as the gauge should read close to 14V in a 12V vehicle [or ~28V in a 24V vehicle]). And, noting that the voltage on the gauge will be below the normal 14-ish volts, perhaps as low as 10V, while the glow plugs are on and should then return to 14-ish volts reasonably quickly after the post-glow switches off and the batteries and system voltage recovers in a 12V vehicle and roughly double these numbers for 24V models.
- Also, check the fusible links at the batteries. These are short lengths of wire about 10cm/4" long that act as slow-blow fuses. They can be recognized as they are distinctly different from the other wires, having very softer rubbery insulation that is most often green but sometimes black. They can be checked for continuity with a test light, or you can do a gentle tug test on the wire -  pull one end of the wire and see if it comes apart easily or the insulation stretches indicating that the wires inside are broken.

3. Lastly, the other common EDIC problem is from water getting into the EDIC Relay control box. This box is located behind the plastic kick panel on the passenger's side of the vehicle. It is silver in colour and has writing on top stating "Fuel Control Relay". 
See this link for what this box looks like:
If it’s been snowing, raining or wet, you need to pull out the kick panel and look for any indication of water intrusion - no matter how minor. Be it water tracking in the dust that’s collected there, marks left by water, corrosion of the steel or coated steel parts in the surrounding area, wet carpets or floor mats, the presence of water anywhere in the kick panel area or nearby floor and so on.
Remove the EDIC box using a 10mm socket and to remove the two fasteners. Have a good look at the box, and if necessary remove the cover and look inside for water contamination, solder joints affected by vibration, corrosion on the circuits or circuit board.
If the relay box is wet, take it inside and allow it to slowly air dry near a warm air vent or a stream of dry air.

Here's a discussion on ih8mud about this....

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